Bridging the gap of food experiences

When Lizzie Parle and I closed Railroad in 2015, we were feeling pretty disillusioned with the London food scene. It seemed like having money was becoming more essential and was also the main thing that drove restaurant openings. It was harder for people without money to carry out ideas for authentic places that had character. By nature, the newer kind of restaurants (the rise of small plates) were less accessible to the wider community. It seems like since then the disparity has grown even more, and the food scene in general has become even more detached from the reality of the way most people live. For a lot of people that work full time it’s unaffordable to eat out regularly, unless other essential things are sacrificed. More importantly, what chance do people with food insecurity, including the working poor, have of even enjoying that one weekly experience. 

Since then my only motivation to start a cooking project came from ideas around a social/community focus. The gap in the way we experience food as a society seems to be sitting uncomfortably with a lot of people in the hospitality industry as well. Plenty of chefs that we have been talking to are returning to work with their thoughts moving towards social and community-based engagement. It makes total sense that chefs and small business owners want to factor this into their working lives. By nature they are generous and caring, and want more than anything to share the joy of great experiences around food. For a lot of people in hospitality, their desire to help people is at odds with the direction the industry is heading. Sometimes you need to hit a certain low point to really highlight the problems. Covid is providing that in a way. 

Until the start of Feb this year, we were just a few of the many people out there who want to do something to help, but don't know where to start. Sometimes you just stand on the street looking around thinking how it should be easy to make food for people, wondering why things are so rigid and can't just be simple. Creating anything is putting your neck out in a way, and maybe that fear of being judged held me back for a long time. The competitive nature of the London food scene was probably a little scarring. It feels like time to move on from these individualistic approaches and move towards cooperation and community.

Lockdown felt like the time to act. Even before Covid, the damage we've done to our communities through striving for individual economic goals is huge. And now you can add to this care services not operating, vulnerable people who are lonely and shielding, people struggling more than ever to provide because they are part of a shitty system. It's hard to just sit home feeling cosy, or worse complaining about lockdown. It's seemed a better idea to actively care for people and also gain a purpose that removes you from the monotony of your own situation. It only took one email and subsequent phone call to the council to get Curry Club moving. They put us in touch with Elizabeth Community Centre, who were ready to take care of distribution if we could cook. We quickly got the old Railroad team back together, with chefs Martin and Eleni now really running the engine of Curry Club.

We want to be part of a bigger movement that nourishes anyone in the community that is in need. There is work going on that is truly incredible, with volumes of meals being produced from food waste in domestic kitchens that seem unfathomable. We love and applaud these initiatives, and to be honest are in awe of them. We can't claim to be having the same daily impact volume wise, but we want to work right beside these people.

We aim to even out the disparity in the availability of the best produce, cooked beautifully by chefs. The deeply satisfying food experiences that people have at restaurants could be so beneficial to people who need their spirits lifting. These experiences aren't about frequency. A delivery once a week or an occasional special dining experience is something to be cherished. A feeling of inclusion rather than being neglected. 

Lockdown restrictions allowing, we hope to one day put together dinners that are about the dignity of receiving the whole experience rather than something austere. Booking a table, being seated and ordering rather than waiting in line. Our attitude towards how we help people should change. We should be helping people survive and also affording them some luxury, whether the luxury is great produce, experience or simply the time not spent cooking one night a week. We need to nurture the souls of people and communities.

We also really want to really grow and highlight our connection to the land that our food comes from. The more that we can support small farmers the better, and the more awareness we can generate together with all the chefs involved the better. Our partnership with Nourished Communities in Islington has also helped us connect more people with the best produce available, while supporting local small businesses. Please join us on our mission to provide meals for people in safe and creative settings, that promote inclusivity and social engagement.